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Is the sargassum finally leaving Tulum?

Sargassum is thinning, and the turtles are still coming ashore after dark onto whatever the beach clubs left out. The sand is doing two jobs at once: clearing for the people arriving in November, and holding six thousand nests nobody books a table over. That is roughly the shape of the week. A town getting ready for a season it can already see, and arguing about what lies beneath it: the drainage, the potholes under the standing water, the price of a ride, the bill for an empty apartment. Then the altars go up, toys first, for the children's souls. Here it is, the week the town spent preparing.

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